Replacing a reed on your Wurlitzer electronic piano is not difficult.  There are a few important things to keep in mind for the best results.  One, the reed needs to be as close to perfectly centered in the ‘comb-shaped’ pickup as possible. Two, the reed has a bit of wiggle room on the reed screw, and where the reed sits (favoring forwards or backwards) impacts the intonation.  Three, the tightness of the reed screw matters.  Four, there are different sized reeds for the different models of Wurlitzer electronic pianos, as well as the different registers of your piano.  Five, the solder ‘pyramid’ on the tip of the reed, which is the main area of tuning the reed, should be a symmetrical pyramid for the best sound (but this may not be of importance to you if you are buying a pre-tuned reed).

What do Jack Springs do? And, What are they?

The jack spring is a small, thin gauged spring about 1” tall that sits between the whip and the fly on your 140 or 200 series Wurlitzer. These are also in upright and grand pianos and come in a few sizes depending on the model of your piano/keyboard.

Vintage instruments are the ‘real thing’ and were built to a different—possibly better—standard than modern ones. But let’s face it: some of them have been around the block, multiple times. And why not? They are decades old: someone should have enjoyed them. Hopefully, that person didn’t enjoy them too much and in the wrong way. (The sheet music holder is not a party convenience tray, necessarily.) For this reason, the vintage instrument market can be a scary and confusing place. Buying a Wurlitzer 200 or 200A is a prime example. Prices range, and if you have never have looked inside one, you possibly don’t know what to look for.

Wurlitzer 200 and 200a keyboards came with some essential accessories and parts, as well as some that were optional at the original time of purchase. If you are less familiar with a Wurlitzer 200 series keyboard, you might overlook something that is critical and you’ll want to have. For the sake of this article, we will be discussing exterior items and accessories, not internal mechanicals, and will be focusing on the 200 and 200a. However, a lot of this information can be applied to the rest of the 200 series (such as 203, 210, 214, 206 and so on).

Part of what makes a Wurlitzer electronic piano feel so great (and so piano-like) to play is its action design. Unlike the simple action of a Rhodes keyboard (which merely consists of a key and a hammer) a Wurlitzer’s action has multiple points of contact and moving parts all working together to smoothly transfer the motion of the player’s touch to the hammer striking tone generator. Like all other pianos, a Wurlitzer electronic piano’s complex action assembly is driven by the key. This sounds obvious, but it is important to note that the key sits on two felt punchings and it is at these points where the first critical action adjustments are done.

The sound of a blown speaker is pretty tell-tale - fuzzy, distorted crunchy sound that may be roughly reproducing the signal you are sending through it or making no sound at all.

There are a few scenarios that can cause a speaker to malfunction. A speaker can sustain physical damage to the cone or even the voice coil. Sometimes the damage is obvious. In other cases, the speaker may look fine, and the distortion may be so subtle that you could be wondering if your amplifier is actually at fault. In this article, we’ll share our tips on how to determine whether your speaker or your amp is to blame.

Although both the Wurlitzer’s headphone out and aux out are (obviously) outputs, they tap the signal from very different points in the circuit. In this article, we’ll describe the differences between the two outputs, so that you can choose which one is better for your application.

A Wurlitzer is a self-contained instrument. Thanks to its onboard speakers and onboard amplifier, all you truly need to get started playing a Wurlitzer is the Wurlitzer itself. No external amps or accessories required!

Of course, there are a few pieces of gear that will make your Wurlitzer perform at its fullest potential. Here’s what we recommend:

The Wurlitzer 700 is the console version of the Wurlitzer 120, and its manual is very similar to the 120 manual. The 700 is the same keyboard, except that it is housed in a more traditional cabinet that resembles a spinet piano. The primary differences between the two manuals is that the 700 manual has photos and diagrams of the console.

The pilot light in all Wurlitzer 120 Electronic Pianos is unique. You may notice that when you turn on your 120 the lamp takes a few extra seconds to turn on. Likewise, when turning the amp off the pilot light may take a few seconds to turn off. It kind of does its own thing. That is because the pilot light (or lamp) is a neon glow lamp. Just when you thought the 120 couldn’t get any cooler, it has its very own neon sign to let you know when its on.

There are two major reasons why an amp might smell like it’s burning:

1. The amplifier is covered in dust, which is in fact burning from the heat of the tubes

2. The amplifier is malfunctioning and a component is burning

If you have any doubt whether your amplifier is burning, you should turn it off and unplug it right away. However, you may be asking yourself, am I overreacting? Is it correct to be concerned about this burning smell? Or do old amps always smell this way?

The circuitry that turns the amp on and off is very simple: pretty much just some wiring that provides line voltage to the transformer. More commonly, this wiring is in great shape, voltage passes through it with no problem at all, the amp turns on, all the bad components inside receive all the power that the circuit can offer, and then the amp starts malfunctioning.

A Wurlitzer electronic piano is a unique instrument that uses a piano-like action assembly to strike metal reeds of various pitches to make sound. Like traditional acoustic pianos, a Wurlitzer electronic piano (or EP) has an action assembly with wooden hammers, keys, whips and dampers. However, the tone is generated when the hammer strikes a metal reed, whereas on acoustic piano a string is being struck. One simple principle remains the same though: longer or larger tone generators make lower-pitched notes, and shorter or smaller tone generators make higher-pitched notes.

Chrome Wurlitzer 200 and 200a legs are often rusty. Unlike earlier models, the 200 and 200a do not have built-in leg storage. And chrome legs are often not stored as conscientiously as the keyboard itself — or, even if they were originally, they’re prone to rolling away (probably, as luck would have it, into the dampest corner of the room). Anyway, we’re happy anytime the original legs are present, regardless of their condition. (Without the built-in storage method, they are very easy to lose over a span of 35+ years!) And if they are covered in rust — good news! — it is easy to remove.

We are very excited to announce that our collection of Wurlitzer service manuals are available for download!

The Wurlitzer service manuals are a valuable resource in restoring Wurlitzer keyboards. Although they are not perfect, they contain a lot of interesting, useful, and historically important information. The 112 claims that it is not a guide on servicing pianos in “ten easy steps” (condescending air-quotes theirs!), but it kind of is. You should read the service manual corresponding to your Wurlitzer — and maybe even a few others, since a lot of the information can be applied across models.

When you repair an amplifier, you have two choices. You can bring it back to its original state by fixing only what is broken. Or, you can improve the circuit by modding it.

There is a lot to love about an amplifier that is in fully-functioning, but original, condition. When using a vintage amp, you are playing music on a slice of time. You are combining two different musical periods in a way that is impossible to replicate with any other gear. It’s basically time travel.

If you have just scored a vintage Wurlitzer 200 or 200A, or perhaps you are just pulling one out of storage, you may find that the metal hardware has rusted or tarnished. Depending on where the Wurlitzer was stored, the chrome on the legs might have pitting and/or rust, and more than likely the feet have rust as well. In this article we are going to talk about how to replace the Wurlitzer feet. New Metal Wurlitzer feet are available in our shop and will be a closer match to the vintage chrome legs than the old dull feet. Also your studio floors will thank you!

Whether you are a podcaster or a musician, capturing higher quality audio will make your content pop and grab your listener’s attention. That’s why graduating from apps and smartphones is something you have probably considered — and you would be right to do so. While the cameras on mobile devices are improving to a slight degree, their microphones are small and offer extremely poor sound quality. So, since we’ve decided you are going to aim for good sound quality, let’s go over the basics of how audio is recorded.

When restoring a Wurlitzer, there are a lot of really tedious and time-consuming steps: polishing keys, lubricating action parts, regulating, tuning, etc. We could go on and on — but we won’t, because today we are talking about rust removal, a task that is not on that list. Removing rust is easy and actually borderline fun because it only requires two things: a little Evapo-Rust and a few hours to kill while the product works its magic.

If your tube (or solid state) amplifier is not “turning on,” the cause of this problem could be a blown line fuse. The line fuse, also referred to as a mains fuse, is the fuse that stands between the main AC power and your power transformer. In an otherwise functional amp, the main fuse can and will blow when there is a problem between the wall outlet and your power transformer (PT). A fuse can also blow when there is a short somewhere in the amp. In either case, the fuse is doing its job when it blows and is protecting the amp by stopping it from running when there is a problem present that could harm the amp’s circuit.

All tubes follow the same basic principles. Inside a tube’s glass enclosure, you have 1) a vacuum and 2) at least two electrodes (but often more, depending on what type of tube we’re talking about). Each electrode has a specific job: either releasing electrons, attracting electrons, or slowing down or speeding up the flow of electrons. We’ll talk about these jobs later. For now, the main thing that tubes are intended to direct electrical current from A to B in some way that is useful to the circuit.